There are a lot of options here for upgrades and room for improvements.I will list each with my opinions and experiences.I will start with the most expensive option first and work down to the least expensive.

$695 Works piggy back street shock offers non adjustable dampening,but does offer adjustable preload.Pretty much a stock shock with better valving and you can chose a stiffer spring.Better options on the used market.I'm not real familiar with this shock.I don't know if it changes the height from stock.

$150-$500 Cannon Race Craft will re-spring and re-valve your shock, and work with you to get the proper spring rate for your application.They will rebuild and modify shocks upon request.Ask for Tony.Even tho the GS shock only has preload adjustment,Cannon should be able to re-spring and re-valve the shock to match any upgrades done to the front suspension.This is an option for someone needing a new shock that wants a no fuss set up that's better than new.This set up will not raise the bike up,unless the shock was sagging from age and wear.

$50-$200 2006+ Yamaha YZF6R AKA R6 rear shock.These can be rebuilt with Race Tech springs and valving for a super performing shock.These are completely adjustable right off.Very few will feel the need to build their shock for better performance.You need the shock with the clevis on the bottom,along with the bushing that goes through the linkage,and bolt.The red spring has a rating of 9.8kg/mm and the yellow spring has a rating of 10.1kg/mm.Not really enough to make much difference.I say go yellow if you can.This shock may raise the rear about an inch.This is usually due to an old sagging shock or old badly adjusted original shock preload.

$40-$120 Suzuki SV650 rear shock.You need the standard shock without the fluid reservoir.The clevis end has to have a new mounting hole drilled and the excess clevis has to be cut off.This is not really difficult but a beginner mechanic should weigh options carefully and seek help.I don't know the spring rate difference between colors.Here is a write up on modifying the shock to fit.Be aware that this shock can raise the rear up a couple inches which can cause the steering to quicken dramatically.This may cause a new rider to crash.

$15-$80 88-97 Suzuki GSX600/750F Katana rear shock.This is the shock I have.It has preload adjustment and rebound adjustment.It will raise the rear about 1 to 1.5 inches in the rear.This depends on preload, and how bad the old shock was sagging or adjusted.These shocks are getting hard to find in good usable shape.They can be rebuilt but you have to find a very knowledgeable person to do the work.That gets expensive.


If you install a shock,and it's too high,you have options.No need to remove a shock upgrade because of the height.You can get lowering links fairly cheap.Most will get 1 to 2 inches of drop.That will more than compensate for the shock's extra lift.They are easy to change.Suspension links are the same from 1989-2011

Yana Shiki 2" Drop Billet Aluminum Lowering Links

GS500 Lowering Links

Burkhart Cycle 1 to 3 inch drop links

Suzuki GS500E/F Suspension Upgrades-Rear Shock Options

I am often asked about the suspension upgrades I have done to my Suzuki GS500E.I have done so many,it's hard to go through them all in one post.So I'll break it down into three posts,stock fork improvements,rear shock options,and upgrading to an 88-97 Suzuki GSX600/750F Katana complete front suspension.

The GS500 forks are just ok for cruising around on, if you're under 140 pounds.The later GS500F models (02+) seem to have a better spring rate than 89-01 models.I haven't been able to confirmed this.I am going based on word of mouth from internet forums.Anyway it goes,the forks are still lacking performance.Most people complain about the front forks bottoming out and being squishy.Squishy is a technical term used when discussing the soft GS500 suspension.The best upgrade is new fork springs,better heavier oil,and a fork brace fender mount.The GS500 forks are only 37mm in diameter,which is tiny and flexible.

FORK SPRINGS-What's best for me?
There is no perfect answer for this,So I will break it down based on my opinion, on what I have learned from my experiences,as well as others that I have talked to.First, there are two types of fork springs, progressive rate and straight rate.Please don't confuse Progressive "name" brand springs with progressive "rate" springs.Progressive rate springs get stiffer the more the suspension is compressed.Straight rate springs are completely compressed after the weight rating is exceeded.Straight rate springs are sized to the application and rider.Example,a rider that only rides solo and commutes can get away with a softer spring.Where as a heavier rider, that rides two up through curvy roads, will need a stiffer spring.

I break it down like this.
PROGRESSIVE RATE SPRINGS
For the general rider that commutes and does light traveling, with a little sport riding thrown in,progressive rate springs will work great.The springs are progressive so the manufactures don't usually give out rating numbers.They are also the cheapest cost wise,usually $20 to $50 cheaper than straight rate springs.

Progressive Suspension Fork Spring 11-1128


STRAIGHT RATE SPRINGS-
80kg/mm-under 140lbs total riders weight
85kg/mm-under 160lbs total riders weight
90kg/mm-under 180lbs total riders weight Race Tech Fork Springs - 0.90kg/mm FRSP S2938090 Most popular option.
95kg/mm-under 200lbs total riders weight
These weights can actually go 30lbs either up or down.It's just a guideline.Going up on kg/mm gives a stiffer spring rate.There is no 100% correct spring rate.It's all based on personal preference.


Stock springs are rated at .594 kilograms per millimeter AKA kg/mm.


FORK OILS
I recently had a discussion,with Tmod on KatRiders forum, on this very subject.I used factory 15w Suzuki fork oil, after rebuilding my forks.I decided to do some cold weather riding,at least cold for my area.The temperature ranged from mid 50'sF to low 40'sF.My front end was rigid.Even after 120 miles, my forks never softened up.When I would hit a bump at speed, the front wheel would lift off the road surface.Sounds fun eh?Nope,not when it's out of your control.During my discussion,I was put on the right track to solve my rigid cold fork problem.I was referred to a product that is perfect for most applications.A quick issue needs to be addressed here.As temperatures drop,oils thicken.To solve this problem,we need an oil that maintains it's viscosity over a broader range of temperatures.Bring on the synthetic blend fork oils.Tmod introduced me to Torco RFF fork oils.They hold their viscosity better in all temperatures.The best for most applications is Torco RFF 15.If you're under 150lbs,try out the Torco RFF 7.Each fork holds approximately 382ml or roughly half a quart.

Torco tech sheet PDF

Torco RFF 7 Fork Oil

Torco RFF 7 Fork Oil


FORK BRACE FENDER MOUNT
These are 100% custom made.I have never ran one on a GS500 front forks.I know they help.Anything that stiffens the front end, and keeps the tire running true,helps feel,feed back,and performance.The fork sliders can move ever so slightly out of line, when moving up and down the chrome fork stanchions.Along with this,the sliders can rotate ever so slightly, causing the front wheel to track off in relation to handle bar position.Most riders will never push their GS500 hard enough to notice this.For those of us that do,we need a fork brace fender mount.There are three ways to get them,hope that one comes up for sale on ebay,check GStwins forum to see if anyone is making/selling them,last but not least,take your stock fork brace fender mount to a machine shop, and have them make one out of 3/8 inch aluminum plate.They're simple and people report having them made between $40 and $60.

Emulators,these are a whole different monster.Unless you are racing in a class that requires you to use stock forks,forget them.They are expensive and require extensive knowledge on how to set them up and tune them.The forks have to be partially dismantled to make adjustments to them.Money would be better spent on upgrading to an 88-97 Suzuki GSXF600/750F Katana front end.I will be doing a write up on that soon.

Suzuki GS500E/F Suspension Upgrades-Stock Fork Improvements

The very first modification(mod) I made to my 89 Suzuki GS500E, was to replace that hideous red brick Suzuki dubbed a taillight.I've seen more stylish taillights on a school bus.Some people have used other taillights from other motorcycles,aftermarket one offs,and homemade taillight.I have even seen the factory GS500E taillight flipped and recessed.Honestly,the flipped and recessed factory taillight don't look half bad.It makes it appear to be brighter, because it gets the light under the tail more, and keeps the sun from washing out the lights.I don't have any info on this,but I will share my experience at installing the 1999 Yamaha R1, AKA YZF1000R, Clear Alternatives taillight.This light is now being produced by a different company and can be had for $20 to $40.It pays to shop around.I found mine on Ebay for $13 shipped, brand spanking new.They guy wrecked his motorcycle while waiting for the taillight to arrive.He found it a few years later, and now I have it.

Installing the taillight is pretty straight forward.The old taillight is held on by two nuts.Remove the nuts, through the tail under the seat,slide the taillight out the back end a little,and unscrew the bulb sockets.The bulb sockets make a quarter turn and pull straight out.The new Yamaha R1 taillight is held in by two button head screws.The taillight mounts in the same place.First,some GS500E motorcycles have a little bracket that comes out when the original taillight is removed.This little bracket is not used with the Yamaha R1 taillight.It can go in the box of spare parts with that hideous red brick.Another issue that some people have when doing this conversion,is the bulb socket not properly seating.There is a little tab on the GS500E bulb socket that needs to be cut down.It can be done with a box cutter or hobby knife.My GS500E did not require this modification to be made in order to fit the Yamaha R1 taillight.After getting the bulb sockets in place,the taillight is ready to be installed on the bike.When installing the taillight,do not crank down on the screws.Nice and snug on the screws.Just enough to keep the taillight from flopping around.To much tightening of the mounting screws will split the plastic taillight mounts and trash the taillight.

Now that it's all done,check to make sure the light bulbs still work,and go for a victory ride.


See that hideous read brick hanging out of the back of my motorcycle?It had to go.


Here is how the new Yamaha R1 taillight looks when it's mounted.I used the rubber grommets and washers that hold the factory taillight.Sorry for all the dirt and junk in there.


Here is the after shot.Way better and more stylish than the red brick.It is also brighter, because there is less colored plastic around the bulbs.


My next installment will cover getting rid of those hideous stock flapping turn signals, or directional indicators if you're in other parts of the world.

1999 Yamaha R1 Tail Light To GS500E Conversion-The Beginning.

Before I get to deep into sharing my write ups on some of my modifications,I would like to reintroduce my 1989 Suzuki GS500E motorcycle.The post before this kind of details how the motorcycle came to be mine.I bought it just so I could modify it into the motorcycle I wanted.I have three pages front and back, in a notebook, of modifications that I have done to my motorcycle.Here I will list some of the major modifications and changes in appearance.Many people that see my motorcycle think that it came from the factory the way it looks.That's what I wanted.It's kind of like a sleeper GS500E.Only those that are very familiar with the Suzuki GS500E will be able to point out some of the things that I have done to my motorcycle.I used as much Suzuki motorcycle parts as possible, to try and keep it all one manufacture.Since I couldn't do that on the cheap,I used as many production part as I could from other motorcycle manufactures.The rest is cheap Chinese clones of production motorcycle parts.I have roughly $3000 in my completed motorcycle.Some may argue that I spent to much on a motorcycle that is only worth one third of what I have in it.OK,but I have a motorcycle that will last as long as a new motorcycle,costs less to own than a new motorcycle,and will provide me just as many years of enjoyment as a new motorcycle.Plus,I get the satisfaction of knowing that I built it all by myself.If it gets damaged,I know I can repair it myself, and not have to worry if a shop will repair it properly.So my hats off to those that can throw away their old motorcycle and buy a new one.Better yet,just give me the old motorcycle, and see what I can do with it.

OK so here are the details of my 1989 Suzuki GS500E Motorcycle.I will quote it from a recent forum post I made about my motorcycle.I also wanna give praise to my friend Dgyver for helping me with parts for my projects and modifying some parts to work on my motorcycle.

Here are the build specs.

Suspension

Front
Katana(95) 750 front end-for dual disc bakes and adjustability
Katana 600 upper triple
SealSaver fork seal protectors
15w fork oil-add a little stiffness for better road feel and cornering
GS steering stem swap-was done to adapt the Katana 750 front end to the GS frame
CBR F1/F2 clip ons-these are a must for sport riding and there the only ones that fit my custom application
Katana(89-97) handle bar controls- just because I had them and they fit

Rear
Katana(97) 750 rear shock-stiffer,lighter,and adjustable
Stock GS swing arm and linkages

Brakes

Front
Katana(95) 750 stock dual disc
Katana stock dual 4 piston calipers
Katana stock master cylinder
GS brake lever
Russel dual line stainless steel brake lines- better brake feel and more reliable
Ebc HH sintered pads-better stopping for sport riding

Back
Bandit 600 rotor
Katana(98+) 600/750 caliper bracket
GS stock caliper
EBC HH sintered pads-sever over kill/causes lock up if you get to happy with the rear brakes
GS stock caliper torque rod-reworked to clear rear tire
Stock GS rear brake line

Wheels and Tires

Front
Stock GS 3.0 inch wheel-same as the stock Katana 750 front wheel so it matches the front end upgrade

Rear
Bandit 600 4.5 inch rear wheel-stock was 3.5 inch and the larger wheel allows me run more common size radial super sport motorcycle tires
GS bearings
Custom wheel spacers
GS cush drive sprocket carrier
Stock 39 tooth GS sprocket

Tires
Shinko 005 Advanced
120-60-17 Front-up from 110-70-17
160-60-17 Rear-up from 130-70-17

Engine Upgrades
K&N Lunch Box Air filter-gets rid of the restrictive factory airbox
K&N Crank Case Breathe Filter-needed after the factory airbox was removed
Carb rejet 40/145/3 turns on the mix screws-must do after exhaust and air filter upgrade
D&D Slipon Muffler-Right side muffler from a Suzuki Hayabusa exhaust kit
SV650(99-02) EBC Kevlar Racing Clutch Friction discs-better clutch grip
SV650(99-02) Barnnet Racing Clutch Springs-better clutch grip and feel
Bob B. Ignition Advancer- help smooth out the power curve
SV650 Racing 1/5 turn throttle tube-more like 1/6 on the GS-faster to full throttle
JTS 15 tooth engine sprocket AKA output sprocket

Body and Frame
Buell knock off turn signals-upgraded flasher relay for signals/EL-12 Electronic-stock one needed a lesser load-new signals are brighter
No Name Ebay mirrors
Targa 1/4 Fairing
Targa Chin Spoiler
05 Large Style 5.5 gallon Gas Tank-original was 4.0 gallon
Stock GS tail fairings
Stock seat(building a custom seat/not finished yet)
99 Yamaha R1 Clear Alternatives Tail light-brighter and easier to see during the day
Bandit 400 Front Fender-stock gs fender was to small to cover the new tire size
GSXR 600 Bar ends (early to mid 90's)-helps eliminate some vibration through the handle bars
Custom Gauge mounts and Upper Fairing Stays

These pics make the rear end of my motorcycle look twisted,but it's not.I think the plastic leans of the camera on my cell phone was messed up.









The twist in the rear end is a fluke of the camera.

The Modifications To My 1989 Suzuki GS500E Motorcycle